The promise of the Grand Canyon John Wesley Powell's perilous journey and his vision for the American West

John F. Ross, 1958-

Book - 2018

When John Wesley Powell became the first person to navigate the entire Colorado River, through the Grand Canyon, he completed what Lewis and Clark had begun nearly 70 years earlier--the final exploration of continental America. The son of an abolitionist preacher, a Civil War hero (who lost an arm at Shiloh), and a passionate naturalist and geologist, in 1869 Powell tackled the vast and dangerous gorge carved by the Colorado River and known today (thanks to Powell) as the Grand Canyon." Powell was a scientist, bureaucrat, and land-management pioneer. "He began a national conversation about sustainable development when most everyone else still looked upon land as an inexhaustible resource. Though he supported irrigation and dams, h...is prescient warnings forecast the 1930s dust bowl and the growing water scarcities of today. Practical, yet visionary, Powell didn't have all the answers, but was first to ask the right questions.

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Subjects
Published
New York, New York : Viking [2018]
Language
English
Main Author
John F. Ross, 1958- (author)
Physical Description
xv, 381 pages, 16 unnumbered pages of plates : illustrations, maps ; 24 cm
Bibliography
Includes bibliographical references (pages 343-365) and index.
ISBN
9780525429876
  • Acknowledgments
  • Introduction
  • 1. Into the Cauldron
  • 2. Osage Oranges and Pink Muckets
  • 3. Thinking Bayonets
  • 4. First Thoughts West
  • 5. Descent
  • 6. The Canyon
  • 7. Encore
  • 8. Fighting the National Surveys
  • 9. A Radical Idea
  • 10. Taking Over Washington
  • 11. A Tough Opponent
  • 12. Last Stand
  • Epilogue
  • Notes
  • Index
Review by Booklist Review

John Wesley Powell was a uniquely nineteenth-century American hero. Although his life's work was an attempt to survey the new frontier, he fought with those who promoted the West as a land of unlimited opportunity, countering the doctrine of manifest destiny. Losing an arm in the battle of Shiloh, Powell returned to service and rose to the rank of major. After the war, seeking to complete work that Lewis and Clark began years earlier, he led a crew of mountain men on a daring expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers on the first known passage of the Grand Canyon. A significant explorer, Powell also played a vital role as a scientist for the federal government, an early advocate of sustainability, and a geologist who aimed to map the western region and promote the positive role the government played in land and water management. Ross makes vivid Powell's adventures, drawing on journals and contemporary accounts, even capturing the drama of vicious battles among scientists vying for federal funds, including Powell's clashes with senators and bureaucrats, in this fascinating portrait.--Segedin, Ben Copyright 2010 Booklist

From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

This enthralling tale by adventure writer Ross (Enduring Courage) focuses on the life of John Wesley Powell (1834-1902), an explorer, geologist, and early proponent of environmental sustainability. Ross portrays Powell as a practical visionary who challenged the status quo of the Gilded Age by encouraging people to "listen not only to their heart, pocketbook, and deep aspirations, but what the land itself and the climate would tell them." His early life in the Midwest as a boy working on the family farm and as a schoolteacher and budding naturalist shaped his ideas about the environment. Ross displays a flair for adventure writing as he recounts Powell's service with the Union Army during the Civil War (which cost him half an arm) and subsequent work on geological surveys of the West, and he renders Powell's 1869 expedition of the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon in breathtaking detail. That trip convinced Powell that water was the key to development in the West and led to his career in the federal government, where he fought for his vision of land and water management. Ross demonstrates a facility for both human history and natural history, clearly showing why Powell's ideas matter today. Illus. Agent: Stuart Krichevsky, Stuart Krichevsky Literary Agency. (July) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.

(c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Review by Library Journal Review

Most people know Maj. John Wesley Powell (1834-1902) as the courageous, one-armed, Civil War veteran who rafted down the Green and Colorado Rivers and through the Grand Canyon in 1869. This amazing feat is just one of Powell's legacies, as Ross's (Enduring Courage) new biography describes Powell's talents in ethnography, geology, surveying, and mapping, along with his political acuity that helped shape America's federal science and Western land stewardship. One of Powell's many strengths was in logistical planning and organization, skills he learned in the army and later applied on various expeditions, in testimony before Congressional committees and when launching new government agencies, such as the Smithsonian's Bureau of -Ethnology and the U.S. Geological Survey. In masterly use of primary and secondary sources, Ross makes Powell's wrangling with senators as fascinating as his river expeditions. Powell advocated for the local control of Western water rights to ensure population growth and settlement was sustainable, yet these ideas were ignored by Congress. VERDICT If you've ever used a topographic map, thank Powell. His legacy deserves more attention, and Ross's biography stands to correct this. For all readers, especially lovers of science, history, and adventure.-Margaret Atwater-Singer, Univ. of Evansville Lib., IN © Copyright 2018. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.

(c) Copyright Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Review by Kirkus Book Review

From adventure writer Ross (Enduring Courage: Ace Pilot Eddie Rickenbacker and the Dawn of the Age of Speed, 2014, etc.), a new biography of a well-known figure in the history of Western exploration.John Wesley Powell (1834-1902) was famous in his day as the first Anglo explorer to travel the length of the Colorado River, in two expeditions, and explore the Grand Canyon. His voyages down that wild watercourse are the stuff of legend, especially inasmuch as he managed to scale the rock walls of the canyon with only one arm, having lost the other at the Battle of Shiloh. Less well known is his later career as a scientist. He served as the second director of the U.S. Geological Survey and argued that the federal distribution of homestead land "might well work in Wisconsin or Illinois" but was inappropriate to the arid West, where a tract near water was more fittingly 80 acres and one without it 2,560 acres. Powell's reports to Congress on the arid lands, containing a daring proposal to encourage self-governance organized by watersheds rather than the straight lines of surveyors, were fervently opposed and suppressed, for he revealed the limits the land placed on growth. The author finds this a useful parable for a time of climate change and lessening availability of water in the West, as Powell's Colorado becomes the nation's "most contested and controlled river, every single drop of it allocated to serve more than 36 million people in seven states." Readers who know of Powell are likely to be sympathetic to Ross' arguments, but much of the main thrust of his book can be found in Donald Worster's A River Running West (2000) and Wallace Stegner's somewhat dated but still iconic Beyond the Hundredth Meridian (1954). Still, Ross' view through the lens of the unfolding crisis lends Powell and his arguments new relevance.A sturdy but not entirely fresh study for readers interested in the fate of Western water and in the settlement of the West and a good place to start learning about a key figure. Copyright Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

Copyright (c) Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

Chapter 1 Into the Cauldron In 1838, four-year-old Wes rode next to his father, Joseph Powell, on the last leg of their journey south to Jackson from Chillicothe, their horse-drawn cart rolling easily down the unusually wide dirt road that wound through the rugged Appalachian foothills of southeastern Ohio. They may have felt like pioneers, but that same hard-beaten path had carried multifarious travelers since the last Ice Age, all drawn by the region's salt licks-the deposits of natural saltwater springs-so thick as to permanently frost the banks of local creeks. First had come the mastodons and shaggy mammoths of the Pleistocene, later followed by herds of bison-and then the first human beings to leave a mark on the land, the mysterious mound-building peoples of a mere two millennia before. In historic times, the Shawnee had padded silently on moccasined feet, and just three decades earlier, the first European settlers had crossed the Appalachians to settle. Six age-old "salt roads" converged like the spokes of a wagon wheel upon what had only very recently become the town of Jackson. The Powells' cart pulled up the steep escarpment to the rutted main street of Jackson, which crested the fifty-foot ridgeline, commanding views of a rugged hilly land harrowed by ridges, deep ravines, and creeks. Mean-looking wooden houses did duty for the town's main street, every bit as tough as its namesake, Andrew Jackson, Indian killer and hard-handed populist president. Eden it was not, but elements of civilization had reached there, most notably Presbyterian, Methodist, and Baptist churches. Jackson also boasted a post office, hotel, and six shops, including Mrs. Sylvester's, which sold ginger cakes. The town hall faced French's Tavern, Jackson's most thriving establishment. The thirty-four-year-old Methodist preacher had brought his young family here from western New York State at the suggestion of a fellow Welsh minister. They had agreed that too few souls were left to save in the New York panhandle, a region roiled by evangelical Christian revivals. The Reverend Benjamin Childlaw knew of several largely Welsh communities that thrived twenty miles outside Jackson, whose man worked blast furnaces that turned rich local veins of iron ore into pig iron, which the burgeoning railroads were already consuming in great quantities. Childlaw figured that these devout Calvinistic Methodists might profit from some ministering. That was all Joseph had needed to uproot his wife, Mary, two daughters, and Wes, to journey some five hundred miles southwest. Joseph likely did not know that his destination lay in a veritable war zone. Only fifty miles separated Jackson from the Ohio River, which separated the free state of Ohio from slaveholding Kentucky. The lands bordering this "magic line"-as Harriet Tubman famously called it-rippled and bucked in disorder as southern bounty hunters pursued slaves escaping northward, often clashing with those who did not recognize human beings as chattel. In Ohio particularly, an outspoken breed of take-no-prisoners abolitionism had arisen, met with equally strident resistance from a merchant class desperate to preserve commerce with the cotton-rich South. And a hundred and twenty miles west of Jackson, in Cincinnati, the harrowing story of a mother's winter passage over the frozen Ohio to freedom, clutching her baby to her breast, would inspire Harriet Beecher Stowe to write the antislavery polemic Uncle Tom's Cabin, which next to the Bible would become the most-read book of the nineteenth century and hasten the nation toward terrible civil war. Joseph's immersion in this fraught borderland would force him down an unanticipated path. Unlike the vast majority of evangelical Methodists, most of whom condoned slavery-either owning slaves themselves or trusting in the Peculiar Institution to fade in time-Joseph would find that his faith called upon him to reject human bondage outright. He would become a radical, one among only a handful of white abolitionists making up a fringe movement whose members Ralph Waldo Emerson dismissed as "angry bigots." No one, certainly not the Sage of Concord, liked even the hint of getting their noses rubbed in the moral contradictions upon which the Founders had built the republic. Joseph's newly awakened beliefs would bring violence to his family's very door; his son would feel the repercussions of his father's radicalized passions most keenly. A flare of violence would imprint itself on the boy for life, shaping-more than any other experience over seven decades-how he would bring himself to face this treacherous world. Joseph Powell's most symbolic act in America had come four years earlier as he held his newborn eldest surviving male child for the first time. Staring into the infant's blinking eyes, he named him John Wesley; not simply John or Wesley, but the full name of Methodism's great founder. The Welsh immigrant had first felt Methodism's powerful urgings in the Old World, but it would be in the New that they would fully flower. By so naming his son, Joseph had solemnly pledged the infant Wes to carry on the work of the Lord to which he himself had so ardently committed. Joseph would see to it that his son memorize the Gospels and shout out the hymns. From an early age, Wes felt his father's expectations weigh heavily upon his small shoulders. His father would leave for a month at a time to preach across the wilderness: Armed with a Bible, a volume of John Wesley's sermons, and a hymnbook without musical notations, Joseph would saddle up the family horse and ride forth on a twelve-stop circuit that would take him away for an eternity-or so it must have seemed to a family that ultimately swelled to eight children. Young Wes increasingly took on the duties of helping his siblings read their Bible lessons and sing their hymns. In these long absences his mother, Mary, tempered the often rough edges of zeal that Joseph left behind, providing emotional support for her often-overburdened eldest son. Wes had to grow up fast in a nation spreading ever faster before his feet and those of hundreds of thousands of other new Americans. No one had anticipated the speed with which the newly arrived Europeans, along with their enslaved Africans and West Indians, would settle the continent. Thomas Jefferson thought it might take a thousand years to reach the far Pacific, when in fact it took only a long lifetime. The frontier of 1800, running along the crest of the Appalachian Mountains, would jump beyond the Ohio Valley in just nine years, then surge across the length of the Mississippi by 1850. In 1890, the U.S. Census would declare the frontier gone. In the first few decades of the nineteenth century, the flood of immigrants poured into the vast "trans-Appalachian" West-defined as the area west of the Appalachians, but east of the Mississippi-which contained more square miles than Great Britain, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, and Belgium combined. They came from England, Germany, Switzerland, Scotland, Ireland, Belgium, France, Wales, the West Indies, and West Africa, borne by flatboat up the Ohio, on wagon or foot along ancient Indian trails, or later-like the Powells-upon the Erie Canal. Many of these newcomers could not speak English, and many were semiliterate at best; few had any idea what America-scarcely more than a name on the wind-offered aside from raw opportunity. This overwhelming tide brought about one of the most explosive population increases in history. The center of American gravity-its politics, its institutional loyalties-was shifting inexorably west and south. With the federal government weak, as Andrew Jackson had willed it, at least by European standards, and no state religion to clarify doctrines of morality and conduct, the trans-Appalachian West lay in a ferment of new ideas and institutions. Evangelical Protestantism took hold tenaciously: Few other periods of sectarian growth in the history of Christianity rival its wildfire spread across America's heartland. Revivalist, evangelical Protestantism overshadowed the Anglican and Congregational traditions of the East Coast within a generation of the opening of the Erie Canal. New denominational energies, such as those of the Methodists, Baptists, and even entirely new churches-the Shakers, Disciples of Christ, Millerites-flourished, but none rose and spread so quickly as Methodism, which had outpaced all other American denominations by 1850. Joseph lent his considerable energies to an inspired Methodist strategy to bring the Word to this huge moving frontier. He and some four thousand other circuit-riding preachers set out to reach remote settlements on horseback and foot. Often not even ordained, yet licensed to preach, many circuit riders came from among the ranks of artisans and shopkeepers who could support themselves and their families without depending on meager central church stipends. When not riding the appalling roads, Joseph worked long hours in the front room of their small house on Jackson's Main Street, stitching coats, shirts, and jackets late into the night by the flicker of a single candle. Better to wear out than to rust out, as the Founder liked to say. In a land yet to see a national newspaper or electric telegraph, in which information traveled at the speed of a man on horseback and the post office was viewed with suspicion as an arm of intrusive government, the circuit riders stepped in as newsbearers and moral purveyors, arbiters of good manners and proper dress, the critical dispensers of knowledge and propriety to the young republic. For a generation or more, the cultural cohesion of trans-Appalachia was largely shaped and energized by the dedicated flock of exhausted, saddle-sore men pushing their horses from settlement to settlement. The peculiarly American figure of the itinerant preacher evoked the popular Midwesterners' response to bad weather: "There's nothing out today but crows and Methodist preachers." The 1784 Book of Discipline, which laid down the principles and doctrine of the Church, contained words rewritten for an America suddenly embracing a continental vision: "To reform the continent, and to spread scriptural holiness over these lands." Methodism formed the bedrock of the American South's and Midwest's blend of apolitical anti-elitism and social conservatism. The circuit rider depended on families to shelter and feed him. In return, he passed on news of his earlier stops-of who had died and who had been born, the by no means infrequent roster of appalling accidents or outbreaks of disease that haunted the frontier-sold the books he carried with him, both religious and secular, and handed out dated newspapers. The task routinely included passing on information not just about the next town, but about the rather ill-defined world at large, and how to live better in their own. Ordained or not, he might perform a marriage, funeral, or baptism. At midday, wherever he was, he would set up at a crossroads, perhaps, in front of a homestead, or quite frequently, in a mere field or barn-and set to preaching. Without notes, he would sermonize in homespun prose, Bible in hand, outlining how living John Wesley's "methodical" life meant forgoing cursing, drinking spirits, committing adultery, fornicating, and dressing provocatively or ostentatiously. "Cleanliness is next to godliness," he might tell them, citing one of Wesley's innumerable and often memorable axioms. Methodist preachers were advised themselves to "Beware of clownishness, [either in speech or dress. Wear no slouched hat.] Be courteous to all." He would lead them in a few hymns, perhaps "Amazing Grace" or "Come, Sinner, to the Gospel Feast." The riders offered the men, women, and children of this New World the intoxicating chance to wipe away their sins right there and then on that patch of meadow, dusty road, or porch front-but only if they repented and took Jesus Christ as their personal savior. For a young republic of immigrants on the move, Joseph and his circuit-riding brethren brought nourishment that no bread or riches could provide, the chance to unload sins and embrace the opportunities of living a God-fearing, productive life in a land full of uncertainties. For Wes, the message rang clear that through self-discipline and constant industry, human beings could overcome evil and the challenges of a new land.