The eating instinct Food culture, body image, and guilt in America

Virginia Sole-Smith

Book - 2018

Visiting kitchen tables around America, this timely volume explores today's toxic food culture, telling the stories of those who are struggling with food issues and providing insight into how to feel good about food.

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Subjects
Published
New York : Henry Holt and Company 2018.
Language
English
Main Author
Virginia Sole-Smith (author)
Edition
First edition
Physical Description
xv, 282 pages ; 25 cm
Bibliography
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN
9781250120984
  • Preface
  • 1. Nothing by Mouth
  • 2. Chasing Clean
  • 3. Comfort, Food
  • 4. Fear of Food
  • 5. Eating While Black
  • 6. Bypassing Hunger
  • 7. Learning to Eat
  • Notes and Sources
  • Acknowledgments
  • Index
Review by New York Times Review

No, those pants don't make you look fat: achieving the best diet and the best self-image. JOIN ME, won't you, in the diet book drinking game. Here's how it works: Every time you read the following words, you down a shot of tequila. Ready? Yummy Veggies Detox Green smoothie Humanely raised Usually, by the time I'm on Page 10 I'm ready to take off all my clothes and lick the necks of strangers - and I don't even live in Florida. So for your safety, and my own, I've mixed traditional diet books with some that are half memoir and half instruction, offering a sprinkle of inspiration. Let me take two Advil and begin. As a title it's quite a mouthful, but dressing on the side: (And Other Diet Myths Debunked): 11 Science-Based Ways to Eat More, Stress Less, and Feel Great About Your Body (Grand Central, $26) is simple and pragmatic. The nutritionist Jaclyn London thinks better (not perfect) health depends on eliminating your "self-shaming" and "cognitive distortions about your own abilities" - meaning she wants us to stop mooning over everyone else's Instagram pages and focus on achieving our personal best. There are common-sense distinctions here between fact and fiction, and simple-to-understand nutritional workarounds for all sorts of real-life situations. So: Yes to amping up the vegetables and fruits, and yes to drinking more water, for many reasons. No to detoxing, a pseudoscience word that means nothing. Your liver and kidneys are detoxing as we speak, with no help from kale. The title of this book should really be "Stop It. Stop It Right Now." That powdered collagen I'm mixing into water? It's doing pretty much nothing. Coconut oil smells good, but doesn't actually burn belly fat. Sorry. And sorry, Tom Brady, food can't change the pH of your blood. But how about drinking apple cider vinegar? Oops: It's neither antibacterial nor an appetite suppressant. Well, it is, in the sense that you've just set your esophagus on fire, but otherwise, no. London also points out that even if something is true, it doesn't necessarily mean you should do it. For example, there are numerous studies indicating that intermittent fasting (going from eight to 24 hours without eating anything, sometimes several days a week) may in fact put you in a state of ketosis, where fat is used for energy instead of sugar in the form of glucose. But the other thing low blood sugar does is fuzz your vision (not ideal if you read a lot), prevent you from focusing at work and mess with your ability to exercise. I have fasted. Probably you have too. Here's the SparkNotes revelation: You feel bad; then you feel really really good; then you want to die; then you Hoover up whatever's in the refrigerator. When an author starts off with "I'm here to tell you... " I'm pretty sure the rest of that sentence will be worthless. And here, in Jonathan Bailor's the setpoint diet: The2i-Day Program to Permanently Change What Your Body "Wants" to Weigh (Hachette, $27), is the rest of that sentence: "you can be a member of that exclusive 'club' of naturally thin people." Super. Still, what's more seductive than the idea that we can change our setpoint: the number on the scale, give or take 10 or 15 pounds, that our body seems to return to again and again? Bailor has come up with the SANE diet, which suggests that not all calories are created equal and that in fact different food calories have varying degrees of Satiety, Aggression (meaning, how quickly those calories flood your body with glucose), Nutrition and Efficiency. You can become a fat-burning machine by chucking some of the foods - basically, anything that makes life worth living - and consuming a lot more of others. (Did someone say lean protein and veggies?) Although Bailor isn't a medical doctor - in fact, he created fitness videos at Microsoft - there's some solid science behind what he says. Depending on what you eat and when you eat it, you can make a difference. The problem? It's the kind of eating that demands you think of food more as fuel than, say, a source of pleasure. And you have to do it forever. I know I couldn't. But here's my favorite Bailor factoid. In a chart on all the things that increase your setpoint - that is, keep you at a higher weight - along with starchy, sugary foods and diet pills, he lists the news. I'm confident that when the Southern District of New York releases all it knows about Trump's various businesses, my pants will be looser. I admit Bryan Kozlowski's the jane austen diet: Austen's Secrets to Food, Health and Incandescent Happiness (Turner, cloth, $31.99; paper, $16.99) is probably better as a literary romp than as a dieting tome. But Austen fans and superfans (ahem) will enjoy being reminded of how smart she actually is about our health, and how she uses food, eating and exercise as shorthand for character. Kozlowski contends that Austen's embrace of body diversity (Anne Elliot in "Persuasion" is desirable and petite; Lydia Bennet is equally alluring as a curvy, "stout, well-grown girl") and subtle recognition of the mind-body connection (good health and happy spirits are intimately intertwined) put her ahead of her time. And in "Austenworld," only her nonsensical characters become romantically attached to food (Dr. Grant, the clergyman in "Mansfield Park," lived to "eat, drink and grow fat"). There are Regency-era recommendations for exercise (all that walking) and tinctures for good health that have at least some basis in reality. (Dandelion tea, popular in Austen's novels for "liver disorder," has been shown to maintain the proper flow of bile.) Perhaps most delightful is the reminder of a classic exchange in "Pride and Prejudice" that every woman should emulate. When Darcy and Lizzie Bennet are at a party and he comments to his friends that her body is "tolerable, but not handsome enough to tempt me," Lizzie's reaction is to crumple into a ball and cry. Oh no, wait, it's not! Here's her real reaction: She thinks he's ridiculous. And then she laughs with her friends. The health writer Virginia Sole-Smith began asking what influences our relationship to food and eating after her daughter, Violet, was born with a heart defect that required three open-heart surgeries and made her phobic about eating. Violet had to learn, slowly, that food was safe. That experience, which was perhaps even more traumatic for the parents than the little girl, set Sole-Smith on a journey to discover why eating has become so fraught - how Americans' anxieties about what we put in our mouths have engendered entirely new forms of disordered eating. Before reading THE EATING INSTINCT: Food Culture, Body Image, and Guilt in America (Holt, $28) I thought I knew about every manner of eating disorder. I did not. For example, there is Arfid, or avoidant-restrictive food intake disorder, which is an extreme form of "picky eater." Orthorexia is an unhealthy obsession with healthy food. Although Sole-Smith raises a lot of questions that she doesn't answer and indulges in a little more hand-wringing than someone with my philosophy of food (which can be summed up as "eat perfectly, eat badly, die anyway") can stomach, her book makes interesting reading. And if you follow more than five people who hashtag # cleaneating on Instagram, you might ask yourself a few questions about your own food proclivities. Proust may have had his madeleines, but Tommy Tomlinson has his mother's banana pudding. It will not be lost on the reader that a memoir about the pain of growing up fat in America will make you run to the refrigerator. The man can write about food (and everything else). In the elephant IN THE ROOM: One Fat Man's Quest to Get Smaller in a Growing America (Simon & Schuster, $27), Tomlinson talks about how, when you weigh north of 450 pounds, your size is never far from your mind. Clothing, restaurants, seats in sports stadiums, proximity to bathrooms (because if you're fat, your bladder is under constant pressure), even sex: You navigate the world with the realization that embarrassment may always be right around the corner. His book looks at the culture of obesity in America as well as at his own personal (slow, ongoing) weight-loss journey. Food is his constant in a poor childhood, and when he's older, and sometimes spending days alone, it's a bulwark against loneliness. "On those days when the gravity of solitude tries to pin me down, fast food serves as a little bridge to the other side," he writes. "Sometimes, when I'm in a creative rut, I'll take a drive to get out of the house and see things with a fresh eye. Almost always, I'll end up in a drive-through somewhere. Maybe I'll sit in the car and people-watch. Maybe I'll just take my food home. But at least, I tell myself, I've been out among people for a while. I've tried to be human." "The Elephant in the Room" is quite a beautiful book, and for anyone who has ever loved a person of not just a few extra pounds but 100 or more - and wondered, "How the heck did that happen?" - it will make you understand in a way you didn't before. JUDITH NEWMAN is the author, most recently, of "To Siri With Love: A Mother, Her Autistic Son and the Kindness of Machines."

Copyright (c) The New York Times Company [August 23, 2019]
Review by Booklist Review

Journalist Sole-Smith, a contributing editor for Parents magazine, peels back the complex layers of America's relationship with eating. Her personal journey of researching food, eating habits, and the culture surrounding food began during an ongoing medical crisis that required her to retrain her infant daughter to eat. Her family's personal struggle with the topic is woven throughout the book. Folding her journalistc research into food-related social sciences, and history into her memoir, she also uncovers the impacts of race and economic status on the advertisements people see, the foods available to them, and how all of this affects their eating habits. Picky eaters, foodies, food historians, parents of preemies, and readers who rarely even think about food will all find the statistics Sole-Smith uncovers to be interesting and surprising. Unlike Eric Schlosser (Fast Food Nation , 2001) and Michael Pollan (The Omnivore's Dilemma , 2006), Sole-Smith focuses less on what we eat and more on how we eat. What is similar is the author's discovery of fascinating and at times unpleasant facts.--Joyce McIntosh Copyright 2018 Booklist

From Booklist, Copyright (c) American Library Association. Used with permission.
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

In this deeply personal and well-researched indictment of American diet culture, parenting and food writer Sole-Smith explores hunger, satiation, and the myriad other reasons humans eat, or don't. After a medical trauma left her month-old daughter Violet unable to eat and reliant on a feeding tube, the author realized that the primal instinct to self-nourish is "also surprisingly fragile," easily influenced by vegetable-pushing parents or the sugar-fearing wellness industry ("These twin anxieties about obesity and about the eco-health implications of our modern food system have transformed American food and diet culture"). In retraining her child to obey hunger cues, Sole-Smith found that most adults also need "a set of rules to follow, a literal recipe for how to develop this basic life skill." She profiles self-styled health gurus who have secretly suffered from eating disorders (such as Christy Harrison, host of the Food Psych podcast), and tracks how patients who have undergone bariatric surgery learn to love and listen to their bodies even "after having a part cut out of it because a doctor told them it couldn't be trusted." Sole-Smith argues that "nutrition has become a permanently unsolvable Rubik's Cube," but by looking beyond willpower and nutrition fads she helps readers examine their own relationships with food. (Nov.) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.

(c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Review by Library Journal Review

The story of freelance writer Sole-Smith's (New York Times Magazine, Harper's, Slate) daughter is harrowing and will quickly draw readers into this survey of American eating culture. Unable to eat properly in her first few weeks of life, the author's daughter had a feeding tube inserted. Their journey to remove the tube and learn to eat "normally" again leads to question, what is "normal" eating anyway? Modern Americans, particularly women and children, are bombarded with conflicting messages of what they should eat and when. Sole-Smith covers many topics from picky eating to gastric bypass surgery and particularly focuses on societal messages around what children and pregnant women should eat but also address other adults and different socioeconomic classes. VERDICT As noted early on, this book discusses topics that might be uncomfortable for some readers, and as such is not for everyone, particularly those with a difficult history with food. That said, readers wishing to learn more about disordered eating as well as those looking to be more mindful about food and the social messaging around it, will find this work useful.-Cate Schneiderman, Emerson Coll., Boston © Copyright 2018. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.

(c) Copyright Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Review by Kirkus Book Review

An exploration of eating issues in relation to our body image-obsessed culture.In her debut, Parents magazine contributing editor Sole-Smith offers shrewd insights into far-ranging concerns about struggles with food. She confronts a variety of healthy eating trends and challenges the persuasive yet often ambiguous messaging supporting these trends, including the recent spate of celebrity-endorsed product lines. The author also relates her recent struggle as a parent trying to feed her infant daughter, Violet, in the midst of an early medical trauma. Diagnosed with a rare congenital heart defect, Violet underwent several difficult surgical procedures, forcing her to often rely on a feeding tube. In her attempts to encourage Violet to develop natural hunger instincts through organic nutritional substances, Sole-Smith was slow to realize that her instincts as a food and diet specialist were undermining Violet's naturaland, in her case, ultimately healthycraving for something sweet and satisfying: chocolate milk. The author chronicles her conversations with individuals and families across the country: low-income parents struggling to provide healthy and affordable meals for their families; picky eaters and their challenges; individuals dealing with a newer and more complex issue such as avoidant-restrictive food intake disorder; and other food writers, some of whom feel pressured to promote and live by the latest healthy trends. Though Sole-Smith's observations are more thought-provoking than prescriptive, her narrative leads readers toward a better understanding and acceptance of individual instincts. "We must decide for ourselves what we like and dislike," she writes, "and how different foods make us feel when we aren't prejudging every bite we take. It takes its own kind of relentless vigilance to screen out all that noise. It requires accepting that the weight you most want to be may not be compatible with this kind of more intuitive eatingbut that it's nevertheless okay to be this size, to take up the space that your body requires."A well-informed and only occasionally overreaching consideration of a broad, complicated topic; a worthwhile read for anyone with anxieties about food. Copyright Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.

Copyright (c) Kirkus Reviews, used with permission.