Masa Techniques, recipes, and reflections on a timeless staple

The dough that transforms into tortillas, tacos, and tamales is the star of this fascinating deep dive into the culture and craft of a Mexican cuisine mainstay. The first quarter of the book unpacks masa's three ingredients--corn (there are some 59 breeds in Mexico), water (making up 47% of a fresh-cooked tortilla), and alkali (used to treat the corn in a steeping process called nixtamalization)--and tracks the history and the forces behind the foodstuff's popularity and commercialization as it found its way into the U.S. Next, the masa cooking process is laid out step-by-step, from corn kernel considerations to the grinding of flour--be it with a traditional grinding stone or a food processor. Masa has literally hundreds of applications and, here, the recipe section focuses on 50 traditional uses as well as 10 modern twists. There are classic arepa, empanada, and flauta options, each awaiting the cook's choice of filling, which can be derived from a chart of "topping and stuffing basics." Torpedo-shaped molote fritters, for instance, can be stuffed with chorizo, while football-shaped tlacoyo are commonly filled with pureed beans and topped with cheese and salsa. Among the contemporary offerings are lamb birria with masa gnocchi from the former New York eatery Lalo, as well as shrimp and masa grits. Masa proves its mass appeal in this comprehensive and terrific guide. (Sept.)