Nistisima The secret to delicious vegan cooking from the Mediterranean and beyond

Nistisima, Greek for "fasting foods," take center stage in Hayden's tribute to Greek Orthodox traditions, recipes, and stories from her family's and friends' Mediterranean heritage. Part lesson in religion and history, it combines plant-based eats, new twists on Mediterranean foods, and evocative photography. Za'atar buns, makdous (eggplants with walnuts and chili), and charred watermelon and pistachio salad will have kitchen enthusiasts readying their backyards for summer evening spreads, while heartier fare such as legume-based stews (think black-eyed peas, favas, and lentils) will warm bellies on cooler nights. Some recipes meander pleasantly away from Hayden's Cypriot ancestry to incorporate flavors from Serbia, Jordan, and Romania. Most dishes are approachable (ingredients like pomegranate molasses and mastic may be difficult to source), but advance preparation of dishes will be required to put together a complete meal as suggested. While in a traditional sense the dishes presented here symbolize restraint, they will be a treat to the newcomers interested in preparing them.

"I am not here to tell you how to pray, how to live your life or even how to eat," writes chef and food journalist Hayden (Taverna) in this exceptional collection of plant-based recipes mainly inspired by her Greek roots. Conceived to adhere to nistisima, the Greek Orthodox church's fasting tradition, the dishes abstain from using any animal products, but feel far from restrictive. Insightful explainers on religious significance head up each recipe, such as a tempting Jordanian upside-down savory cake layered with vermicelli and vegetables that's often enjoyed during Ramadan. Meanwhile, savory pies form a rich subcategory that includes a double-crust pie with spinach and zucchini, and a phyllo spiral brushed with harissa oil. Plenty of recipes also hail from religious figures, including an open-face tart in a pumpkin-bulgur crust from a monk in a monastery outside Beirut, and the fermented drink kvass produced by Russian Orthodox priests. Desserts, though sparse ("no dessert every day" during Lent, the author laments), feature delicious techniques and fascinating stories: an orange--olive oil cake offers an homage to Saint Phanourios, the saint of lost things; Serbian rolls encase apricot jam in a dough that incorporates beer; and edible blossoms are fried in a lacy batter. The result is a stellar collection that will satisfy religious observers and agnostics alike. (Aug.)