Thoughtful cooking Recipes rooted in the New South

William Stark Dissen

Book - 2024

Growing up in West Virginia, Chef William Dissen began his culinary journey in his grandmother's kitchen. There, family meals were cooked with local ingredients, many from the home's bountiful garden. In this ambitious debut cookbook, Dissen reinterprets the flavors of his youth, putting a modern spin on recipes grounded in the traditions of sustainable agriculture, local cuisine, and the hills and valleys of his Appalachian community. Thoughtful Cooking also represents a culinary vibe shift, as these recipes invite the reader to meditate on the importance of cooking through the seasons and considering the people who are growing, harvesting, fishing, and foraging the ingredients. With modern, Southern-inspired recipes like Cornmea...l Fried Catfish with Butterbean and Boiled Peanut Stew, Tomato Sandwiches with Confit Garlic Aioli, and Red Wine-Braised Beef Short Ribs with Blue Cheese and Green Apple Slaw and Cumin Chili Sauce, Dissen showcases the flavors of the place he calls home.

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Subjects
Genres
cookbooks
Cookbooks
Published
New York, NY : Countryman Press, an imprint of W.W. Norton & Company [2024]
Language
English
Main Author
William Stark Dissen (author)
Other Authors
Johnny Autry (photographer), Charlotte Autry
Item Description
Includes index.
Physical Description
288 pages : illustrations (chiefly color) ; 26 cm
ISBN
9781682688083
  • Introduction: What Is "Thoughtful Cooking?"
  • Tools of the Trade
  • Larder
  • Spring
  • Bright Lights Chard and Goat Cheese Tart with Spring Herbs
  • Yukon Gold Focaccia Flatbread with Cured Salmon, Crème Fraîche, and Pickled Red Onions
  • Strawberry and Arugula Salad with Red Onion Marmalade and Confit Shallot Dressing
  • Le Grand Aioli with Tarragon and Dill and Spring Crudités
  • Wild Ramp and New Potato Bisque with Pine Nut Dukkah and Mint Pistou
  • Roasted Carrots with Benne Seed Za'atar, Preserved Lemon Yogurt, and Carrot Top Pistou
  • Roasted Asparagus with Poached Farm Eggs and Green Goddess Dressing
  • Pea and Ricotta-Stuffed Morel Mushrooms with Romesco Sauce
  • Fava Beans and Charred Spring Onions with Watercress, Feta, and Sherry Thyme Vinaigrette
  • Mac and Cheese with Smoked Cheddar Mornay, Spring Peas, and Aged Ham
  • Crispy Soft-Shell Crabs with Green Garlic Aioli
  • Whole Stuffed Rainbow Trout with Lemon Butter and Grilled Ramps
  • Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder with Crispy Smashed New Potatoes, Asparagus Cream, and Green Strawberry Relish
  • Asparagus and Rice Middlfn' Risotto
  • Cornmeal and Olive Oil Cake with Whipped Crème Fraîche and Strawberry Preserves
  • Pickled Ramp Dirty Martini
  • Spring Champagne Cocktail
  • Summer
  • Zucchini Fritters with Hot Honey
  • Tomato Pie
  • Country Ham Wrapped Peaches with Stracciatella and Candied Hazelnuts
  • Fresh Watermelon with Toasted Benne Seeds and Feta Cheese
  • Tomato Sandwiches with Confit Garlic Aioli, Heirloom Tomatoes, and Basil
  • Grilled Summer Squash with Blistered Sungold Tomatoes and Garlic Chili Crisp
  • Roasted Street Corn with Jalapeno Lime Butter, Fresh Peaches, and Coriander Cream
  • White Gazpacho, Cucumbers, Green Grapes, and Almonds
  • Indian Okra and Tomato Stew with Cilantro and Cucumber Raita
  • Fairy Tale Eggplant with Benne Seeds, Green Tahini, and Pickled Fresno Pepper Relish
  • Sockeye Salmon Crudo with Jimmy Nardello Peppers, Pine Nut Za'atar, and Charred Torpedo Onions
  • Cornmeal Fried Catfish with Butter Bean and Boiled Peanut Stew, Green Tomato Chowchow, and Herb Aioli
  • Garlic and Herb Grilled Shrimp with Dill Yogurt
  • Pan-Roasted Golden Tilefish with Rice Pirlou, Lady Peas, Roasted Eggplant, and Roasted Cherry Tomato Relish
  • Grilled Rib Eye with Bourbon Chanterelles and Sauce Verte
  • Billy D's Fried Chicken with Nashville Hot Dip and White Barbecue Sauce
  • Grilled Plums with Spiced Mascarpone
  • Peach and Blackberry Crisp with Almond Crumble and Peach Ice Cream
  • Grey's Hound Cocktail
  • Peach and Jalapeno Margarita
  • Fall
  • Cast-iron Monkey Bread with Caramel Sauce and Walnuts
  • Shrimp and Grits with Appalachian Tomato Gravy and Country Ham
  • Foraged Mushroom Toast with Black Pepper Ricotta and Pickled Ramps
  • Roasted Corn Chowder with Charred Corn and Crab Salad
  • Charred Radicchio with Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette
  • Braised Romano Beans with Roasted Tomato Sauce
  • Cauliflower and Apple Salad with Green Peppercorn and Mustard Dressing and Soft Herbs
  • Kale Salad with Roasted Beets and Ginger Miso Dressing
  • Charred Broccolini with Sunchoke Miso and Cured Egg Yolk
  • Roasted Acorn Squash with Hazelnut Picada, Wildflower Honey, and Chile
  • Candy Roaster Squash Soup with Blue Cheese and Pumpkin Seeds
  • Kohlrabi and Celery Salad with White Anchovy and Citrus Dressing
  • Smoked Turkey Legs with Kumquat Glaze
  • Pan-Roasted Half Chicken with Swiss Chard and Fresh Figs
  • Roasted Wild. Salmon with Sunchoke Chips and Parsley Salsa Verde
  • Cider-Braised Pork Shank with Farro, Collard Greens, Honey Nut Squash, Pickled Red Onions, and Gremolata
  • Pumpkin Grits with Roasted Maitake Mushrooms
  • Pork Porterhouse with Sweet Potato and Sorghum Fondue
  • Braised Duck Legs with Charred Brussels Sprouts and Parsnips and Rosemary Applesauce
  • Grilled Hanger Steak with Flowering Cauliflower and Mushroom Butter
  • Corn Bread, Olive Oil, Country Ham Cracklins', Espelette Pepper Jelly
  • Dark Chocolate and Dulce de Leche Brownies with Burnt Marshmallow Fluff
  • Apple Tart with Cinnamon Brown Butter Ice Cream
  • Benton's Old-Fashioned
  • Black Walnut Manhattan
  • Winter
  • Jalapeno Biscuits
  • Banana Bread French Toast with Mascarpone, Raspberry Preserves, and Maple Syrup
  • Flat Iron Steak Sandwiches with Red Wine Cabbage, Arugula, and Blue Cheese Dressing
  • Heirloom Corn Grits with Mushroom Ragout and Poached Eggs
  • Charred Romainewith Miso Tahini Dressing, Fried Croutons, and Mint
  • Roasted Beet Salad with Blood Orange, Farmer's Cheese, and Red Wine Vinaigrette
  • Rainbow Root Vegetable Gratin
  • Shiitake Mushroom Spoonbread
  • Gnocchi with Braised Greens, Parsnips, Roasted Mushrooms, and Benne Tahini
  • Cioppino with Tomato and Fennel Broth and Sourdough Toast with Saffron Aioli
  • One-Pan Roasted Winter Vegetables, Rosemary, EVOO
  • Roasted Sunchokes, Satsuma Orange, Shaved Torame, and Marcona Almond
  • Kichadi, Split Yellow Lentils, Carolina Gold Rice, Lime Yogurt, and Almond Chile Crumble
  • Raw Oysters on the Half Shell with Fennel, Chile, and Orange Mignonette
  • Smoked Rainbow Trout with Roasted Beets, Preserved Lemon, Endive, and Green Goddess Dressing
  • Wild Striped Bass with Roasted Carrots, Braised Cipollini Onions, and Ham Hock Jus
  • Crispy Pork Belly with Pink Lady Apple and Frisée Salad with Bourbon Cider Dressing
  • Pan-Roasted Wild Grouper with Brown Butter Shrimp and Anchovy Caper Sauce
  • Pork Milanese, aka "Fried Pork Chops" with Preserved Summer Vegetables, Grain Mustard Dressing, and Heirloom Bepper Sauce
  • Baked Sheepshead Fish with Beluga Lentils, Mirepoix, and Vadouvan Butter
  • Red Wine-Braised Beef Short Ribs with Blue Cheese and Green Apple Slaw and Cumin Chili Sauce
  • Lemon Pound Cake with Brie Ice Cream
  • Blood Orange Rum Smash
  • Citrus Limoncello
  • Appendix: Foundational Recipes
  • Culinary Resources
  • Acknowledgments
  • Index
Review by Publisher's Weekly Review

Dissen, the chef behind Asheville, N.C.'s the Market Place restaurant, takes a farm-to-table approach to Southern-style cooking in his exciting debut. He celebrates locally grown ingredients at the peak of their ripeness by dividing the recipes by season. Highlights include slow roasted pork shoulder with asparagus cream and green strawberry relish for spring, cornmeal fried catfish with butter bean and boiled peanut stew with green tomato chowchow for summer, candy roaster squash soup with blue cheese and pumpkin seeds for fall, and heirloom corn grits with mushroom ragout and poached egg for winter. Dissen also shares his passion for foraging ingredients, which inspired him to create dishes including wild ramp and new potato bisque, and pea and ricotta-stuffed morel mushrooms. A few offerings--including cioppino with tomato fennel broth and sourdough toast with saffron aioli, and charred romaine with miso tahini dressing, fried croutons, and mint--feel off-theme, but Dissen's creative flavor combinations are sure to intrigue adventurous home cooks. He admits that the recipes are "not designed to be convenient and quick," but his clearly written instructions are easy to follow. This is a trove of inspiration for weekend and holiday meals. Agent: Ellen Scordato, Stonesong. (Apr.)

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Review by Library Journal Review

Dissen, chef and owner of the Marketplace restaurant in Ashville, NC, makes his debut with a soulful cookbook that embraces the culinary philosophy of eating seasonally and sustainably, while also showcasing his belief that cooking is all about slowing down and being in the moment. Arranged by season, each chapter concludes with a thoughtful essay delving into topics such as seafood sustainability. Recipes range from Southern staple entrées (tomato pie) to libations (a spring champagne cocktail). Cooks in search of fast-to-fix dishes will find that Dissen makes no bones about his philosophy, that thoughtful cooking "isn't designed to be convenient and quick." For example, strawberry and arugula salad includes an onion marmalade that requires two hours cooking time, plus a confit-shallot dressing. But Dissen isn't averse to smart shortcuts, such as using store-bought Duke's mayonnaise in his grand aioli. VERDICT Written with the same love and care as Bill Smith's Seasoned in the South and Vivian Howard's Deep Run Roots, Dissen's irresistible tome of culinary love will be food for thought for readers seeking a grounded guide to cooking.--John Charles

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