Banchan 60 korean american recipes for delicious, shareable sides

In this appetizing paean to "the plethora of small shared sides served with a Korean meal," chef and debut author Choe breaks down banchan into three main categories: preserved and fermented, fresh, and braised or marinated in soy sauce. Kimchi plays a starring role: Choe's parents' classic spicy version appears, as well as a "white" kimchi without heat, and another made with Asian pears. The bracing, umami flavors for which Korean food is known loom large: dried anchovies and kombu invigorate a simple broth, and a grilled cheese sandwich incorporates kimchi and fig jam. Meat dishes include yukhoe ("beef tartare's Korean sibling"), while daegu jorim, or soy-poached cod, features among the seafood options. Choe pitches a tent big enough to house dishes not typically considered banchan, such as sweet potato noodles with rib eye and vegetables, and a pork belly and snow pea stir-fry. Indeed, she never lets tradition get in the way of a good idea, as exhibited in recipes for kimchi-bacon dip and pizza topped with shaved green onions. Cold options include a savory strawberry and cucumber salad and kimbap rice rolls. The flavors are complex, but the instructions are simple, and the tone is relaxed and friendly. Like banchan itself, this collection offers a lot of inviting variety. (Oct.)