Breaking Bao 88 bakes and snacks from Asia and beyond

Pastry chef Lam strives to "make the unfamiliar familiar" by marrying Asian flavors and global techniques in her ambitious if somewhat inaccessible debut. In an informative introduction to common Asian baking ingredients, Lam notes that glutinous rice flours are in fact gluten-free and are often used for chewy desserts. While shokupan (Japanese milk bread), chee cheung fun (plain rice noodle rolls), and other traditional dishes make an appearance, the bulk of the recipes are Lam's original creations, including pork floss and scallion focaccia, fig and marzipan mooncakes, and bolo bao cream puffs. Several recipes require a considerable amount of skill and time: the ispahan jelly cake, for example, requires preparing biscuit joconde, raspberry-rose mousse, and coconut jelly, as well as several hours of chilling before assembling. Less intense but equally appealing options include Vietnamese cinnamon-raisin babka, Thai tea gelati, and gochujang-furikake caramel popcorn. Though Lim's flavor combinations inspire and frequent tips help readers plan ahead (the mango-yakult tres leches cake can be stored in the fridge for up to three days), the recipes will intimidate the less-experienced. This is best suited for veteran home bakers. Agent: Kari Stuart, CAA. (Oct.)