Review by Publisher's Weekly Review
The eponymous L.A. restaurant serves up vibrant plant-based dishes that celebrate the diverse flavors of Mexico with a "fresh California twist." Central to the Mexican pantry is what the book refers to as "The Three Sisters": beans, corn, and chiles. Expanding on this trinity, the recipes employ innovative ways to recreate traditional Mexican dishes sans meat, with creative plant-based protein alternatives such as coconut bacon (dried coconut chips flavored with maple syrup and spices); mushroom pastor, which calls on oyster mushrooms to mimic the umami and texture of pulled pork; and rice paper chicharrones (rice paper deep fried to approximate cracklings). Nut-based cheeses, including cashew nacho cheese and almond cotija--a tangy version of queso blanco--appear in a number of veganized classics, sprinkled on nachos al pastor, tucked within Tex-Mex-inspired chimichangas, and dusted atop crema de elote (creamy corn soup). And while the jackfruit mixiote, a meaty fruit substitute for pork, may not be an everyday-kitchen staple, it proves incredibly versatile here in delicious, modern riffs on traditional favorites like empanadas, tacos, and tostadas. Rich desserts, such as vegan fudge brownies drenched in a salted mezcal-based caramel, make this collection even sweeter. With ingenious flavors and a practical approach, this is the perfect gateway for the vegan-curious and spice lovers alike. (Aug.)
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Review by Library Journal Review
Cookbook developer Rachel Holtzman (The Smitten Kitchen; The Lost Kitchen) has collaborated with Gracias Madre, a San Francisco Mexi-Cali-influenced restaurant, to bring its vegan offerings to the home chef. The founders visited the villages of employees all over Mexico--Hidalgo, Jalisco, Oxkutzcab, Oaxaca, Chihuahua, Yucatán--and brought back the best of each region's culinary traditions to the Gracias Madre table, with a vegan diet top of mind. Recipes include easily accessible meat and dairy substitutes, making it possible to put traditional empanadas, nachos, tortas, and more on the vegan table. Chapters six and seven, highlighting quesos and cremas and salsas and moles, provide everything needed to dip, dunk, sauce, and douse all the way to the final beverages chapter (tequila Paloma, anyone?). The photography by Lisa Romerein is outstanding. VERDICT What this cookbook does best is offer a fresh and bright Cali-style vegan spin on Mexican recipes such as watermelon gazpacho, Coconut Madre Tacos, and tiramisu con mezcal, elevating taste and appeal.--Dodie Ownes
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